Maritime mussel chowder

Ingredients

• 1.25 kg live blue mussels, rinsed and debearded
• 125 ml water or dry white wine, for steaming
• 75 g salt pork or thick bacon, cut into small dice
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 stick celery, finely chopped
• 1 sprig summer savory or thyme (savory is the older Maritime choice)
• 450 g waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 cm cubes
• 500 ml whole milk
• 125 ml 35% cream
• Freshly ground white or black pepper
• 1 tbsp chopped parsley, to finish
• Butter, for the table, and bread or crackers

Method

1. Steam the mussels first, so you have their liquor to cook with. Put them in a wide pot with the water or wine, cover, and cook over high heat until they open, 3 to 5 minutes. Tip them into a colander set over a bowl to catch every drop of liquor. Discard any mussels that stay closed. When they are cool enough to handle gently, ease the meat, still juicy, from the shells and set it aside, covered. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve or a piece of damp cheesecloth to catch any sand. You should have about 400 ml; add a little water if you are short.
2. In a heavy saucepan, cook the salt pork or bacon over medium heat until the fat runs and the pieces are lightly browned. Add the onion and celery and cook until soft, about 8 minutes.
3. Add the potatoes, the savory or thyme, the strained mussel liquor, and enough water to just cover the potatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender but still hold their shape, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the herb sprig.
4. Pour in the milk and cream and warm the chowder over low heat. It must not boil once the milk is in, or it may curdle. Season with pepper. Taste before adding salt; the pork and the liquor are already seasoned.
5. Stir in the mussels and let them heat through for a minute or two. Ladle into warm bowls, finish with parsley, and serve with a little butter to stir in at the table, and bread or crackers.