Moules marinières

Ingredients

• 1 kg live blue mussels, rinsed and debearded
• 2 medium shallots, finely chopped
• 1 small clove garlic, finely chopped (optional)
• 200 ml dry white wine, such as Muscadet or Tidal Bay
• 2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, plus 2 tbsp leaves, chopped, to finish
• 1 small sprig thyme (optional)
• 30 g unsalted butter
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Crusty bread, to serve

Method

1. Look over the mussels. Discard any with cracked shells and any that remain open after a firm tap. Rinse under cold water and pull off the beards.
2. Choose a wide, heavy pot with a tight lid, large enough that the mussels will not be packed more than two or three deep. Melt half the butter over medium heat and cook the shallots, and the garlic if you are using it, until they are soft and translucent, about three minutes. They should not brown.
3. Pour in the wine, add the parsley sprigs and the thyme, and bring the liquid to a lively simmer. Let it bubble for a minute so the alcohol begins to cook off and the shallots perfume the wine.
4. Add the mussels, cover the pot, and raise the heat to high. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice, until they are hot and fully open. Begin checking at three minutes; they go from just at their peak to overcooked in a very short time.
5. Lift the mussels into a warm serving bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving the liquor in the pot. Discard any that have stayed tightly closed. Fish out the herb sprigs.
6. Bring the liquor to a brief boil. Stir in the remaining butter and the chopped parsley, and season with black pepper. Taste: the liquor is already salty from the mussels, so it rarely needs salt. Pour the sauce over the mussels and serve at once, with bread for the juices.